Circular urban production

Eco-design: how to apply it

Eco-design is a key tool for reducing the environmental impacts associated with products and services, helping to achieve sustainable development goals. This article summarises eight strategies that cover the entire product life cycle for you to apply to your business.

According to EU Regulation 2024/1781 on the eco-design of sustainable products, product design currently does not sufficiently promote sustainability throughout the product life cycle. Therefore, the implementation of eco-design requirements that are common across the entire European Union would enable and facilitate the implementation of the circular economy.

For this reason, Eco-design is a methodology for product design in which environmental considerations are taken into account when making decisions during product development, as just another factor to be considered (alongside quality, ergonomics, costs, aesthetics, functionality, safety, etc.)

Similarly, Eco-design integrates multiple aspects of product conception, whilst also taking environmental considerations into account, so that, taken as a whole, the product has a low environmental impact.

In this context, the early stages of product design are crucial, as they determine the product’s impact on subsequent phases, such as production, use, maintenance or end-of-life. Broadly speaking, it is estimated that around 80 per cent of a product’s total environmental impact is determined during its design phase. Therefore, in these early stages, it is necessary to take into account the environmental aspects of the product, alongside other product characteristics such as its functionality, safety, aesthetics, cost, etc., with the aim of reducing its overall environmental impact and improving its eco-efficiency.

Product Life Cycle Aidimme

Taking all stages of the product’s life cycle into account provides a comprehensive overview of the impacts and reveals the influence of each stage on the product’s overall impact, thereby preventing the transfer of environmental impacts between stages.

Eco-design, therefore, represents a balance between industrial development and environmental protection, the importance of which is becoming increasingly evident in the face of the global environmental challenges facing today’s society, such as the depletion of natural resources, the loss of biodiversity, waste generation and the pollution of ecosystems.

With the aim of facilitating the integration of environmental criteria into product development, Van Hemel in 1995 proposed the so-called EcoDesign Strategy Wheel. This tool organises eight environmental improvement strategies according to the different phases of the product life cycle, enabling the identification of opportunities for action and the establishment of specific mechanisms to reduce environmental impacts. It is therefore a key reference in eco-design processes and in the search for more sustainable alternatives.

These eight strategies cover the entire product life cycle which we summarize below in relation to the textile and clothing industry.

1/ Developing a new concept / business strategy

This strategy is based on prioritising the product’s function rather than the product itself. The developments associated with this strategy are: the dematerialisation of the product, product exchange or sharing, integration of functions, and the functional optimisation of the product and its components. 

One example of this is the clothing rental company Rent the Runway, which is used, for example, by American politicians such as Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez.

2/ Selecting low-impact materials

This strategy is based on the selection of environmentally friendly raw materials such a non-toxic, non hazardous materials, renewable materials as well as the use of recycled or energy-efficient materials. And also materials that are easy to dispose of without causing further pollution to the environment.  

Renewable materials include plant-based materials such as organic cotton, linen, hemp, and cellulose fibres derived from wood sourced from sustainably managed forests, as well as animal-based materials such as wool or leather. Fleece garments made from recycled polyester (PET) derived from plastic bottles are among the most widely recognized examples of recycled textiles.

3/ Reducing material use and waste

You can reduce material use, or how much material you waste - this involves optimising the product’s dimensions and reducing manufacturing waste. It can sometimes be achieved by using lighter materials with a lower density, or by designing products with internal structures that allow for a reduction in the amount of material used, without compromising their physical strength. Otherwise, the same material can be used with less waste by optimising pattern piece layout.

4/ Optimising production techniques

Optimisation involves the use of production techniques that have a reduced impact on the environment, such as those that reduce the number of production stages, generate less waste or involve low energy consumption.

One example of this is the use of natural dyes and extracts – an example within the FABRIX network is Rotterdam-based Fabulous Fungi which creates natural dyes from lab-grown mushrooms. Similarly, those dyes formulated by the NATURALFUN and APRONATEX projects are designed to work at low temperatures. This reduces the energy consumption of the dyeing and printing processes while maintaining the fabrics' performance characteristics and does not pollute water supply.

5/ Optimising distribution systems

This strategy involves transporting the product more efficiently from the manufacturer to the end user. For example, designing products efficiently so that they take up less space and transport and logistics are optimised; foldable, stackable or flat-packed products are good examples of this strategy (the IKEA model).  

The strategy also includes reducing the number and weight of product packaging, reducing transport distances by using local suppliers, and integrating re-used or re-useable packaging. For reference, the EU packaging wate regulation provides numerous guidelines that will soon become law.

The use of electric or low-emission vehicles can also contribute to this strategy – on a local level for example bike couriers are a wonderful option.

Finally, the use of highly automated logistics centres also helps reduce the environmental impact associated with storage and transportation. 

6/ Reducing the impact during the use phase

This strategy is achieved by developing products that use less energy, less water or fewer consumables during use (detergent, energy, etc). It also involves products that are easy to clean and maintain. 

For some products, this stage is the most critical, as it is where the greatest impacts are concentrated. During the use phase of a textile product, the main environmental impacts come from washing, drying, ironing, and maintenance.

Some examples of strategies for textiles could be:

7/ Optimising service life

The product must be designed to have a long lifespan. This is achieved by extending the product’s technical and aesthetic lifespan, including repair options, creating a timeless design, and establishing a strong relationship between the product and the user. The concepts of reliability and durability would be included in this strategy. 

Here are some things that can be done to increase lifespan:

8/ Optimising the end-of-life systems

This strategy relates to the end of a product’s life, when it becomes waste. It focuses on the ability to reuse the product’s components, ensure a good waste management or facilitate reuse, dismantling, the correct separation of materials and recycling. Garments made from single materials can be easily recycled: for example, cotton can undergo mechanical recycling, and polyester garments can undergo chemical recycling. On the other hand, garments designed with easily separable materials—such as buttons, zippers, buckles, or embellishments—can be reused in other garments. Textile products can also undergo upcycling processes to transform used items into new products. Consider how your products can be broken down for re-use or recycling from the start to make it as easy as possible for it to avoid becoming waste.

In conclusion, eco-design is a key tool to reduce the environmental impacts associated with products and services, which helps achieve sustainable development goals. Its approach integrates environmental considerations as a further requirement within the design process, on a par with aspects such as cost, safety, quality and functionality. In this way, eco-design encourages the creation of more environmentally friendly products and promotes more sustainable models of production and consumption.

 

Contributed by AIDIMME Technological Institute.